A Long Stopover in Tehran

Pollution. Traffic. Chaos. Fashion. Elections. Khomeini's pictures on the walls. Big bazaars. Palaces. Embassies. Buses with divided sections for men and women. Kebabs. Hidden parties. Hidden alcohol. Car accidents. And... people full of energy. These are some of my memories of Tehran.

I don't like big cities, especially not as densely populated as Iranian capital. Metropolitan area of the city could fit people from two Serbias. However, at that point of my journey, I didn't have idea where to go next. My original plan was to cross Pakistan overland, but since it took long time to obtain Pakistani visa back in Serbia... I was thinking to try in Tehran. Eventually, I found out that its impossible to get their visa outside of your own country of residence, so I was thinking to change my plans, and find a plane to Malaysia.

On my second day in Iranian capital, while I was exploring it by walking, I noticed a big unfinished mosque showing the way to glorious Alborz mountains. However, it's not the mosque that got my attention. It was the flag on a building besides the mosque. Black, red and green colors waving from the top of the building called me to come closer, and once I approached, my curiosity couldn't have been controlled, as I've seen the letters "Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan".

As I stepped into the embassy, I had a feeling like I am entering a jail. Hundreds of people, chaotic atmosphere, noise, dissatisfaction and guards reminded me on some Hollywood movies with prison riots. Apparently, most of them were Afghan refugees with temporary stay in Iranian capital. The rest of them were locals employed in Afghanistan. I was pretty much the only foreigner. As they found out that I am a tourist, they invited me for a separate interview with a consul. "You want to visit my country?" - said an old nice man on the other side of the counter. Although I didn't plan Afghanistan, I thought why not... I knew that north of the country was safe, so I could try. "Ok. I am from Herat. You should visit it. It's a beautiful city" - said consul. "Go to your own embassy, get a permission from them, pay 40 euros to the bank, and I'll give you visa." Wow! That sounded like a proper invitation to the country I was always curious about. And that moment, my plans changed, and I decided to do my trip overland...