
Her name is Fatima, and she is one of the most active couchsurfing members in her city. She accepted my couchsurfing request just few minutes after I sent it, and a day later, welcomed me to her house. Her mother comes from Germany, and she moved to Iran long time ago, accepting Islam and marrying a local. Although most of religious girls are quite conservative with hosting men, Fatima was quite open-minded and her house was open to everyone and always full of guests. Besides me, there were two other guys (from different part of Iran) staying with her. Later that day, in the same house, I had an honor to meet a local champion of swimming through the Persian Gulf for 85 days, crossing 1000 km along the coast of southeastern Iran. He made approximately about 11 km per day, protected by the 7-meter long shark cage, followed by the guide boats of the safety team. Among the pictures he showed me, I remember one where he shakes the hand with Ahmadinejad, Iranian president at that time.



He brought me to try local sweets called "sohan" - a flat sweet biscuit made of pistachios and saffron, very famous across the country. He also showed me Ayatollah Khomeini's house, where he lived for some time after the year of Islamic revolution. In this city, Iranian spiritual leader brought his opposition to the Pahlavi royal dynasty back in the 60s. Qom has a reputation of being quite conservative city, and as a place of pilgrimage, the atmosphere seems more serious than in previous cities. Behind every corner there are big posters of Iranian spiritual leaders, looking at you.
The pride of the city is Shrine of Fatima-al-Massumeh. This holy complex of several mosques, visited by thousands of pilgrims per year, is the place where Fatema È Massumeh was buried in the 8th century. She was a sister of the eight Imam. As I looked like a local, people at the entrance assumed I came for praying...
The next day, I returned to the capital. There, I spent few more days with more people. However, on my surprise, I reunited with Anya - a Russian solo female traveler, who went alone to at least one third of the world. She was my guest back in Serbia one year ago, so naturally, I was happy to have found a new traveling partner for the next two weeks, with whom I continued my hitchhiking trip towards the east...
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