"No problem. I will host you in Astara" - said Arash the previous day. However our morning didn't happen in Astara. And our host was not Arash, but his friend Azim. He is a history teacher, nice and calm family man in his 40s, who lives in a village 30 km south from Astara and gives shelter to the guests of Arash. If this sentence confused you, then imagine our confusion. Anyway, we found out that Azim inspires his younger friends and pupils to host people, and gives a good example, even by accepting their guests. Another surprise waited for us in his house: big meeting of couchsurfing members from nearby towns, all of them staying with him during the night.
That day we decided to explore mountains and waterfalls around Caspian sea, with a help of our guides - Arash and Reza. They bought delicious Iranian bread, perfect for a picnic that we decided to make near the waterfall, after an hour of hiking. Wonderful views on a rice fields, which are guarding the sea from the distant hills waited for us, together with curious villagers. A small waterfall, surrounded by forest, was like an oasis, out of reach from a "moral police", making it as a perfect place for couples, and women who were tired of walking with a scarf on their head.
Back in their village, Azim continued the tour, and almost drove us into the Caspian sea with his car. Most of Iranian people prefer to drive everywhere, instead of walking, even for a short distance. I wouldn't be surprised if one day Iranians invent waterproof cars, which would allow them to drive into the sea...
The coast of Caspian sea was long, covered by thick grey sand where, instead of tourists, garbage was taking a sunbath. Only few men were swimming, while completely covered women waited for them on the sand. If they would swim, they wouldn't take their clothes off.
In the late afternoon, Ilaria and me went to the road again, remembering the Arabic numbers of a registration plate for Rasht. The driver who stopped, agreed to bring us to the town on half of the way there. And then, another surprise: as we arrived to that town, driver asked for money. We tried to explain him about hitchhiking... but once again, another confusion and another crowd surrounding us from each side. We tried to escape from all of them, but the town was too small for any escape. Another car stopped on our signal, but then our stalkers came and scared that driver. And of course, once more, there was police, coming to help us. All of them started talking at the same time, creating another confusion... until, our saver appeared, sent by God, as Ilaria said. A man walked towards our audience closing the door of a big white car, and solved the problem by insisting to pay to the man who was hungry for money. He told the police that he will drive us to Rasht, and problem was solved. That day we learned that many cars in Iran are unofficial taxis, and that we should know few basic sentences in Farsi language for making our hitchhiking trip easier.
Back in their village, Azim continued the tour, and almost drove us into the Caspian sea with his car. Most of Iranian people prefer to drive everywhere, instead of walking, even for a short distance. I wouldn't be surprised if one day Iranians invent waterproof cars, which would allow them to drive into the sea...
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| Azim's car, Azim, Reza and their guests at the Caspian sea |
In the late afternoon, Ilaria and me went to the road again, remembering the Arabic numbers of a registration plate for Rasht. The driver who stopped, agreed to bring us to the town on half of the way there. And then, another surprise: as we arrived to that town, driver asked for money. We tried to explain him about hitchhiking... but once again, another confusion and another crowd surrounding us from each side. We tried to escape from all of them, but the town was too small for any escape. Another car stopped on our signal, but then our stalkers came and scared that driver. And of course, once more, there was police, coming to help us. All of them started talking at the same time, creating another confusion... until, our saver appeared, sent by God, as Ilaria said. A man walked towards our audience closing the door of a big white car, and solved the problem by insisting to pay to the man who was hungry for money. He told the police that he will drive us to Rasht, and problem was solved. That day we learned that many cars in Iran are unofficial taxis, and that we should know few basic sentences in Farsi language for making our hitchhiking trip easier.
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